dresden christmas markets

The Dresden Christmas markets deserve a post of their own.

In total we visited 5: the Advent am Neumarkt next to our apartment (pictured above), the medieval market on our way to Residenzschloss, the Striezelmarkt (the main one) and smaller ones at Munzgasse and near the Frauenkirche. I like that most stalls still sell local or handcrafted items, but I couldn't help comparing prices with the ones we'd been to in Bayern: it's way more expensive to buy these things in Dresden.

The medieval market was especially nice and my favorite one, I think because it was enclosed by such beautiful buildings, and everyone was dressed in period costumes.

Or maybe because I found a stall that was selling handspun yarn. I bought 3 skeins, they were irresistible.

The smaller ones near the Frauenkirche and Munzgasse were quieter and not so crowded...

We went a couple of times to the main Christmas market at the Altmarkt (the Striezelmarkt). This is a huge market, almost comparable to my favorite one in Nuremberg. I particularly loved the children's area and the gingerbread house. There were a lot of events going on, and I was sorry to see that we had missed the Stollen festival by a week. The Dresden Stollen is the most famous one, a sort of moist fruitcake which is the main specialty at all the local markets. We tried one on our last day and although I'm not usually a fan of fruitcakes I can say I quite enjoyed this one.

More photos on Flickr: Prague, Dresden.

dresden

Who hasn't heard about Dresden, the city that was so blitzed during WWII ? This was as much as I knew about the place, and I also knew a lot of reconstruction work had been made, but nothing prepared me for how beautiful it turned out. Old Town Dresden is enchanting, especially during December with all the Christmas markets in full force. First things first ... back in Prague we woke up early to make it to the train station on time. As all of you who ever traveled with a baby probably know, it is hard to ever be on time for anything. In fact, we almost didn't catch our flight in Lisbon, and this time we got on the train as the doors were closing. Yes, that close. Arriving in Dresden we checked in at our apartment near the Frauenkirche. Again, very pleasantly surprised at the quality of the apartment. It had plenty of space for Sara to run around, a nice bedroom and large living room and very functional kitchen. Also, it was located at the start of the pedestrian zone, and within walking distance to all the main attractions (and a 10 minute tram ride from the train station).
We were hungry, so decided to take a brief tour of the Christmas market next door, and then headed to Paulaner's where we had the best meal of the whole trip. It was full when we came in so we grabbed the last table by the door, but it was fine. The waitress even brought a baby chair for Sara although she had to sit below the table. She loved it though, and ate quite a bit of that spaghetti. As I said, delicious meal, great service, and really good beer according to A.

After lunch it was time for a bit of museum time. There are two major museums to visit in Dresden, the Residenzschloss and the Zwinger. We had purchased the Dresden card which allowed for free entry into some of the main exhibits, and decided to visit the Residenzschloss first because it would be closed the next day. So we toured the Neues Grunes Gewolbe and the Turkisch Cammer, both very good and quite interesting. Luckily Sara fell asleep quickly so A. carried her around in the Ergo during the whole visit.

Later in the afternoon we went to the main Christmas market at the Altmarkt: the Striezelmarkt. We had dinner there (Thuringer rostbratwurst, what else ?). The day after we explored a bit more of historical Dresden and the rest of the Christmas markets (this deserves a separate post coming up next). During the morning we went up the Frauenkirche and admired the views.

We also strolled near the river and the Kunst Halle.

And then visited the exhibits at the Zwinger, which we quite enjoyed in particular the Old Masters' Gallery.

Another stroll through the main market, and then we were tired so found a really nice café to rest for a while. It was the Einstein Café, right across the Altmarkt. A hot chocolate and a warm cappuccino were exactly what we needed.

Dinner had been booked the day before at Sophienkeller, which I think is mainly a thing for tourists, but the atmosphere is quite unforgettable. The food was OK, not exactly memorable but not bad either. I had the Weinachts menu (duck breast and almond maize for dessert) and A. had the sucking pig (the house specialty).

book review: the devil in the white city

My first read-along of the year, and a non-fiction book as well, so I thought I'd make a proper review. Also, this book was quite a surprise, in a good way, and deserves to be recommended.

The book is question is "The devil in the white city", by Erik Larson.

The book interested me at first because it was about the World's Columbian Exhibition, something I'd never heard about before. This was organized to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Columbus' arrival in the New World, and it took place in Chicago in 1893. Throughout the book there are several comparisons to the Paris Universal Exposition of 1889, where the Eiffel Tower was unveiled, and that one I knew about, of course, so it's really mystifying I'd never heard of this other so important world fair. It was called the White City due to the color of its buildings, and in contrast to the Black City, which was Chicago itself (and the pollution surrounding it). It was considered the grandest exhibition of its time, and it drew close to 26 million visitors, which is a staggering number for that period.

There are two parallel stories going on throughout the book, and although you'd expect them to intertwine later in the future, the fact is they never do, except for the fact that they take place in the same location and during the same period, and one can be considered a direct consequence of the other. The main story is about the construction of the exhibition, and later on its opening and daily operation till it closed down 6 months later (it ran from May to Oct. 1893). The parallel story is about H.H. Holmes, an alias for Herman Mudgett, later known to be one of America's first serial killers. He built a hotel which was very close to the exhibition's grounds, with certain singularities that made it easy for him to commit his murders. 

There's also a third story, although shorter, about the mayor Carter Harrison and his murder by a fanatic called Patrick Prendergast.

So, what I loved about this book: the whole architecture discussions and details, not only of the exhibition's buildings, but also of the architects involved. I was very sorry that there were no photographs accompanying this book (I read it the digital version, so maybe the printed version has them) because it would've made the reading even more interesting. And the way these buildings are discussed and described by the author, it really made me want to see them for myself. For a non fiction book it almost felt like reading a novel. Daniel Burnham and Olmsted, the exhibition main directors and central characters in the book (Burnham was responsible for the architecture, and Olmsted for the gardening and landscaping), were sympathetic enough and their stories interesting to read about, but didn't quite get my attention entirely. The description of their works were much more fascinating to me. Also, I loved the part about the Ferris Wheel.


On the other hand, the people on Holmes story made more of an impression on me. The victims' loneliness and vulnerability, all those young single women that arrived in Chicago hoping to build a better life, they were such an easy target for Holmes. He reminded me of a giant venomous spider, with the hotel as the center of his web. He's described as being an extremely charismatic man, full of personal charm and able to convince anyone that he was someone to be trusted. It did scare me a bit, since it makes me wonder how many Holmes might be out there, and are never found out.  

I was quite sorry to learn at the end that the much of exhibition's grounds were burnt in a fire that occurred a few months later. Although the architects decided earlier on (due to time constraints) that the main buildings were to be temporary and therefore not built to last, I think it would've been a wonderful sight to see, even by today's standards. 

Prague - day 3

We found 3 Christmas markets in Prague: the main one in Old Town square, then a smaller one near Wenceslas square, and another even smaller near the Palladium shopping centre. On our last day there we explored the two smaller ones, starting by Wencelas square and the streets around it. It is a great shopping area, much more than Old Town, and not as crowded. I loved this particular chocolate and tea shop ...

For lunch we spotted a nice Thai restaurant while on our way to the tower nearby.

We strolled around to the Municipal House, checked the smaller market around the Palladium and had some gluhwein to make us warmer. The Municipal House had a grand café inside, it looked so nice we would've stopped there if we hadn't just had lunch (and all tables seemed booked and looked incredibly busy, so we didn't even try to). Prague does have some very fantastic cafés, I must say. Not only the grand art-deco establishments which looked like the kind of place that Poirot might've favored, but also very modern and minimalist ones. I wish we could've had time to visit them all, but I don't think an extra week would've been enough.

We finally visited the Old Town Christmas market during the day to snap a few decent photos ...

Our favorite market delicacy was Trdelnik, a traditional Czech and Slovak sweet pastry. As you can see, it is made of rolled dough around a metal stick and then grilled with sugar and almond. It is so good it melts in your mouth, literally ...

And then it was time for our chocolate fixture.

After such treats we decided to skip dinner and went home to pack. One last stroll through the bridge to take some photos. Prague is a beautiful city, especially at night.