01::Iceland once again (aug 2014)

(Finally, the long promised posts about our trip to Iceland last year... I haven't been having much time for the blog, which is why it took me so long to post these, but I'll try to write about as many details as I can remember)

I can't believe it took us 6 years to go back to Iceland. We were completely blown away by it the first time we visited, and drove all around the Ring Road. It is one of the most amazing places we've been to, and doesn't compare to anywhere else when it comes to nature and beautiful landscapes.

Last year we finally decided to go back and visit the Westfjords, the one place we didn't have time to explore on our first trip. It's not on the Ring Road, so fewer tourists visit this area, but we had read that it was definitely worth a visit, and it surpassed our wildest expectations.

We stayed in the area for a week, and I'd definitely recommend staying more than just a couple of days since there's so much to see, especially if you're into hiking. Also, we were incredibly lucky with the weather - it only rained a couple of days - but as they say in Iceland, if you don't like the weather just wait 5 minutes ...

Day 1

We arrived in Reykjavik on a rainy day, and waited a couple of hours at the airport for one piece of luggage that never arrived. We think it was Gatwick Connect's fault, since another passenger also had the same problem with them. Luckily all our clothes came, and also our hiking poles, but not our backpack carrier for S. We did eventually received it in Isafjordur 5 days later, but by then we had purchased another one or we wouldn't have been able to take S. hiking as we had planned. 

So when we arrived at the city center we were not so happy, but our mood brightened considerably after a walk around downtown Reykjavik - even in the rain I was reminded of how much I enjoyed this quirky city. I love that main street, very nice shops, cafés and restaurants everywhere. Also, our apartment at Rey Apartments (conveniently located at Grettisgata 2) was as nice as expected. We walked all the way to the harbour where we found the popular Icelandic Fish and Chips restaurant and had the best fish and chips in a long time. There's a choice of 2 or 3 different fresh fish everyday, and their batter is made of spelt. Also, the sauces/dips are excellent as well as their desserts (I had the chocolate cake and A. had the skyr, both very good) and the price is also quite affordable for Reykjavik (around 50 EUR for 2 adults and a child's menu)

 

Restaurants: Icelandic Fish & Chips



Accomodation: Rey Apartments

Alafoss

I had totally forgotten to blog about this, until I recently did a cleaning spree in my studio and found a box full of yummy icelandic wool...

On our last day in Reykjavik we stopped for some yarn shopping at the Alafoss outlet in nearby Mosfellsbær, as recommended to me by Icelandic knitters at the Ravelry forums. It is quite a knitter's paradise, as you can see ...





I have high dreams of knitting a lopapeysa (more examples here) or maybe an Aftur Sweater (like this one, or this one) so I splurged on lots of Lett-Lopi and some Kambgarn



and of course, I also couldn't resist a few plates of Plotulopi. This is unspun bulky icelandic yarn, and it was so cheap I probably would've brought much more if we still had any space left on our suitcases.

Part XIII - Reykjavik again

... and back in Reykjavik again. From Stykkisholmur we made our way back into the capital for a last day of shopping before coming back. We stopped in Mosfellsbaer first, just outside of Reykjavik, to visit the Alafoss outlet store. For me to buy yarn, of course. I literally lost my head there, and brought back a full bag (and tax free, too), but I'll show you that later since it deserves a post of its own.

It was about lunch time when we got in Reykjavik so we went to buy tickets for the Puffin Express tour at the harbour and then to have lunch at the famous Saegreifinn (Seabaron) restaurant, owned by a retired fisherman named Kjartan Halldorsson. We had one of our best meals there (and at very affordable prices too). They serve the best lobster soup ever, and delicious grilled seafood/fish dishes. I had scallops, a particular favorite of mine and which I never seem to find in Portugal.





After such a hearty meal, it was time for some strolling around the main shopping streets and some last minute shopping. Prices are generally expensive but here's my top picks:

Aurum: beautiful items in silver and white gold jewellery. I couldn't resist a pair of earrings from here.
66º North: Iceland's favorite outdoor clothing shop. They sell really nice stuff here. Kind of pricey but very good bargains on sale. I ended up getting a wind proof fleece jacket from the airport shop (which is already tax free, by the way)
Marimekko: the famous Finnish brand had a shop in Reykjavik and I had to take a peek (didn't get any of their fabrics though)
Kolaportið Flea Market: this indoor flea market near the harbour is a must if you're looking for a bargain. I didn't have much time to explore it but got a hand knit icelandic lopi vest anyway, from two nice old ladies who had a stall there.
Handknitting Association of Iceland: for all hand knit items and such. I think they also sell yarn here.

For souvenirs and such we liked the big tourist shop near the start of Laugavegur or any of the big bookstores in this street.



















For our last afternoon we took the Puffin Express tour, which in one hour takes you to Akurey and Lundey, two small puffin islands near Reykajvik. I love these cute birds so the tour was a must for me.

Part I - Reykjavik

We landed in Keflavik airport a little bit after lunchtime, and were greeted by a sunny cold weather. We picked up our rental car, and drove straight to Reykjavik, which is located some 50km from the airport. We had decided to rent a jeep, which I highly recommend, unless you’re not planning to stray from the Ring Road. This so called Ring Road is the main road in Iceland and takes you in a circuit around the island. Most of it is paved, but some parts are still gravel, although perfectly doable on a 2WD. Bust most of the interior roads, however, are marked for 4WD access only, and we were planning to take some of these, probably needing to ford some rivers as well.

That first afternoon was spent in the city. It’s a good thing I didn’t have many expectations about it, or otherwise I might have been disappointed. It would be unfair to compare it to other Nordic capitals, such as Stockholm, my favorite, or even Helsinki. It’s quieter, smaller, and as it is, I found it to be a very relaxed, easy going kind of a city.





We didn’t have any plans for the day, and we were tired from our layover in London, so we just wandered around the center for a bit. The main shopping area (Laugavegur and the streets around it) is nice, and Icelandic designer shops are worth taking a look at.





The unmissable Halgrimskirkja church was right next to our guesthouse, but unfortunately in reconstruction, so we didn't manage to go all the way to the top, from where I read the views are spectacular.



There weren’t many people in the streets during that afternoon, but suddenly we stumbled into one of the main plazas, which was full of people sitting outside in the cafés, or in the garden nearby.





We were starving by then so we started to look for a nice place to have dinner. One thing Reykjavik does have are nice restaurants. Don’t expect them to be cheap, since everything in Iceland is quite expensive, but I suppose that with the Euro currency being so strong I didn’t find the prices to be too outrageous (or maybe it’s because the prices in Lisbon have been increasing so much as well).



We called the much recommended Saegreiffin first, but it was closed until the next Monday, so after checking a few places (including the Sjávarkjallarinn, supposedly the best restaurant in town, but none of us were up for fusion food that night) we decided to go for the more traditional Humarhusid (Lobster House)



That was an excellent choice, actually. The lobster soup was very good, as all the main dishes which included grilled lobster, grilled fresh cod and arctic char. My friend ordered whale sashimi, and after much debate with my conscience I gave in and had a bite. It didn’t surprise me that it tasted quite good, but I’m certain that was the first and last time for me. There was only one choice for dessert but it was delicious and left us content for the rest of the evening.





The next morning we would have to be up quite early so we walked back home and slept without problems despite the midnight sun.

Accomodation in Reykjavik:
Sunna Guesthouse
A really nice guesthouse next to the Halgrimskirkja church and therefore quite close to the centre. We stayed in one of their lovely apartments, which was a great value for money, at least according to Icelandic standards. Breakfast was very good, and the service as well.

Restaurants:
Humarhusid
Amtmannsstíg 1
101 Reykjavik

More photos at Flickr here